Indigenous Indian Cotton Preservers Undo Colonial Influence on Cotton Cultivation
In the heart of India, a movement is underway to decolonize cotton, reclaiming and reviving native cotton species to restore biodiversity and support the livelihoods of farmers and textile workers dependent on traditional cotton cultivation.
Historically, India was home to several native cotton species that were well adapted to local climatic and soil conditions. However, during colonial times, the British rule promoted commercial cotton plantations with specific hybrid varieties to meet industrial demands, sidelining native species. Post-independence, this trend intensified with the advent of genetically modified (GM) cotton varieties like Bt cotton (Bollgard) to combat pests and increase yields, further marginalizing native cotton species.
The impact on farmers and textile workers has been multifaceted:
- Farmers cultivating hybrid and GM cotton have experienced issues such as increased dependence on expensive seeds, vulnerability to pest outbreaks when resistance wanes, and ecological imbalances. Those growing native varieties lost market and institutional support, making their cultivation economically unviable.
- Textile workers tied to traditional handloom and indigenous cotton-based textiles have suffered as the raw material diversity shrank, affecting the cultural heritage of cotton textiles across Indian regions. The extinction of native species narrows the fiber qualities and colors available, impacting traditional craftsmanship.
Decolonization efforts aim to revive native cotton species by preserving seed biodiversity, supporting organic and indigenous cotton farming, and strengthening local textile economies. This approach not only conserves genetic diversity but also empowers farmers with sustainable practices and preserves cultural textile heritage.
Krishna Prasad, director of the organic farmers' association Sahaja Samrudha, is at the forefront of these efforts. Inspired by a farmer's offer to start an Indian cotton growers' association, Prasad has set up the Desi Cotton Growers Association, created posters to encourage local growers to cultivate desi cotton, and established India's first farmer-produced organic seed company, Sahaja Seeds.
Swaminathan Vaithilingam, a biotechnologist, has been instrumental in sourcing more native desi cotton seeds and researching their locations. His journey led him to found KASKOM, a social enterprise dedicated to producing fabrics and garments from Karunganni cotton. KASKOM works with the South Indian Textile Research Association to use "third generation mills" to process the cotton and create rovings.
The Gandhigram Khadi & VIPC Trust finishes the yarn on an ambar charkha and produces light-weight, fully organic dhotis or shawls from the Karunganni cotton. Meanwhile, Prasad also worked with Green Foundation and Navdanya to create community seed banks.
However, the path to revival is not without challenges. After India gained independence in 1947, the government shaped the seed market in favor of American cotton and industrialized farming, leading to a decrease in the percentage of desi cotton grown in the country. Monsanto's release of Bt cotton in India in 2002 further contributed to the decrease, with 96 percent of the country's cotton now grown using Monsanto's seeds.
The recent declaration from the Tamil Nadu Alliance calls for the fashion industry to address exploitation in its textile mills, particularly among adolescent girls and young women. As the movement to decolonize cotton gains momentum, it is crucial that the fashion industry, governments, and farmers work together to ensure a sustainable future for India's native cotton species and the communities that depend on them.
References:
- India's Native Cotton Species: A Review of the Current State and Future Prospects
- The Political Ecology of Native Cotton in India: A Case Study of the Bt Cotton Controversy
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