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Renewal in Noailles District: Marseille witnesses a revitalization

Bustling tourist hub adjacent to Canebière presents a grittier side of Marseille, characterized by:

DowntownMarseille's lively and crowded Canebière area ambitiously portrays an alternate image,...
DowntownMarseille's lively and crowded Canebière area ambitiously portrays an alternate image, lacking cleanliness, decent conditions, and civility; regularly spoiling local inhabitants' everyday existence.

Renewal in Noailles District: Marseille witnesses a revitalization

In the heart of Marseille, a stone's throw from the bustling Canebière, lies a contrasting neighborhood: Noailles. Known for its vibrant, tourist-friendly atmosphere, the area also harbors dirt, unhygienic conditions, and incivilities that impact daily life.

A long-time resident, carrying a bag of carrots from the Capucins market, jokes, "It's like the carnival—not Rio's, but Marseille's." Yet, the pharmacist's assistant is less amused, lamenting the persistent conflict among street vendors who have encroached upon this narrow maze of alleyways. Their illegal wares—recycled goods, contraband cigarettes, opioids, and more— Line the sidewalks, hence the sidewalks' unsanitary state.

Last January, municipal police intensified efforts to remove these merchants of misery. CRS officers still patrol the neighborhood daily to prevent their return. Fabienne, who has resided on Pollack Street for sixteen years, hopes this new peace persists. For over two and a half years, she endured a "hell" of aggressive, noisy, and violent men dealing drugs on her streets, with open drug use and filth making up the neighborhood's daily landscape. Exhausted mentally, morally, and emotionally, she considered abandoning her home before rallying neighbors to create a collective. Their persistent documentation of the neighborhood's dirt and insecurity on social media had a larger impact than their letters, ultimately prompting action.

Tourists visiting on guided tours are typically oblivious to the insecurity and illicit trade that plague the district. They delight in walking through its fruit and spice markets, bazaars, trendy cafes, and historic stores like the Père Blaize herbalist and Maison Empereur, the oldest hardware store in France. Unfortunately, they are unaware of the deteriorating buildings that pose a risk to their health. On November 5, 2018, two buildings collapsed, killing eight residents of Aubagne Street in a tragic reminder of the degradation afflicting some Marseille neighborhoods.

The creation of a Public Local Development Company of National Interest (SPLA-IN), jointly financed by the Metropolis (59%), the State (35%), and the City (6%), followed the tragic event. This initiative aims to revitalize dilapidated areas, such as Noailles.

Rehabilitation work on Aubagne Street has now commenced, with approximately forty buildings in Noailles slated for renovation. Approximately 70% of the apartments will be allocated for social housing, and plans call for further tree planting and continued pedestrianization of the neighborhood. This beautification initiative delights Juan Pulgarin, the owner of El Barrio Marsella, a South American restaurant established a year ago on a neighborhood square. Initially, he offered only lunch, but since May 9, 2021, he has expanded to offer dinner three times a week, thanks to the enhanced security of the neighborhood.

  1. Despite the vibrant lifestyle and trendy cafes in Noailles, the area's housing conditions have been impacted by the persistence of illegal activities like drug dealing and the sale of contraband goods.
  2. The fashion-and-beauty, food-and-drink, and home-and-garden businesses in Noailles like Maison Empereur and El Barrio Marsella face a challenge due to the unhygienic conditions and insecurity in the neighborhood.
  3. Tourists might overlook the general news of insecurity and dilapidated buildings in Noailles, but they delight in exploring bazaars, historic stores, and the local food scenes. Unbeknownst to them, their health could be at risk due to the deteriorating conditions of some buildings.
  4. The efforts to rejuvenate Noailles such as the SPLA-IN initiative and the rehabilitation work on Aubagne Street aim to improve the housing situation, create more social housing, and enhance the overall aesthetics of the neighborhood, which will positively impact local businesses like El Barrio Marsella.

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